Italy Part 2: Florence and Rome

 After spending quality time with the Rudmanns in southern Italy, we hopped on the train (yay fast trains) and zipped up to Florence at the end of December. Paul (and the girls, of course) had never been to Florence so I had scheduled trips to L'Academia, home of Michelangelo's David, and the Uffizi Gallery.  I had never seen the real David, as it was under restoration (or the gallery was) when I last visited with my parents. It definitely lived up to expectations - it was amazing.  Paul walked around and took pictures and sketched - I amused the kids, and even they were amazed.  I asked them, "What's the first thing you notice about David?" And of course the response from both of them was "His penis." So...what ELSE do you notice about David? So we got into a conversation about his ear and is hair, and what that thing over his shoulder was (explaining a slingshot to a kid who's never seen one...?)

 Between the two galleries we had New Years Eve and New Years Day, a national holiday when just about everything was closed.  On New Year's Eve, I woke up at 12:20 to the sound of multiple explosions...they must have gone on 30 or 40 minutes. Italians really love their fireworks! New Year's Day was quiet - I went up to San Miniato in Monte (truly, on a mountain, I was glad it was just me climbing) and Paul took the kids to the park.

The Uffizi was amazing, much better than I remember, although probably tortuous for Claire (3) - I think the yogurt break (pictured below right) was her favorite part - and strangers were commenting on Audrey (6) because she was sitting and drawing the artworks in her notebook.

As we walked around town, we kept passing by Santa Maria Novella (below left), and it always looked gorgeous - I kept taking pictures of it.

On our way to the Uffizi early in the morning, we had some more gorgeous Florence moments with buildings and bridges reflected in the still water of the River Arno.

Spending New Years in Florence also meant some beautiful lights; the illuminated tree by the Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore) in the center of town, and the lit-up merry go round (only 1 euro to ride for a kid!) and building in the Piazza della Repubblica.

Florence also had some amusing graffiti

We finished our trip in Rome, discovering that in the ten years since we'd been there, the Italians got things together and were now charging for entrance to the Forum as well as the Colosseum, but the access to the forum was much improved - in 2005 it was just one path through the Forum, but now you can walk around quite a bit .Claire was posing (below right) and some random tourists even asked if they could take her picture, she was so cute.

By the time we got home (back through Amsterdam and Glasgow again) we were ready to be back.  I had made reservations for a train from Glasgow to Dundee that departed about 1 hour and 5 minutes after we were due to arrive at the airport.  I figured we'd never make it, and have to get a later train.  But Paul was determined...and we made it, thanks to a (relatively) speedy trip through Passport control and great timing with the bus from the airport to the train station - after that we were ready to say Hooray, UK. And of course open presents, because Santa (and our families) left just about all the Christmas presents in Scotland.

Although the trip had its downsides (Paul being ill for most of the trip chief among them) we had a great time overall, and achieved all our goals - seeing the Rudmanns! More light! Families getting along! And of course beautiful scenery, great art, and some good food as well.

Follow this link to read about the first part of our Italy trip!

Italy Trip Part 1: Amsterdam, Naples, Pompeii, Vietri!

When I found out that my best friend's husband was going to be stationed in Naples, Italy, with the Navy during our time in Scotland, I started hatching a plan.  It involved traveling to Italy to see her and her family. I became a little obsessive about planning this trip (as both Margaret and Paul can attest).  But I wanted it to be great. Since we were traveling at Christmas, I also didn't want any unwelcome surprises like "Oh, the train from Rome to Naples on the 23rd? That's been fully booked for 6 months." Yeah, okay, so, obsessive. But the plans came together. Involving lots and lots of transport - the kids and I counted how many planes, trains and buses we went on over the trip...here are the totals:

Transportation	Number
Planes	4
Trains	9
Buses	6

But ridiculous amounts of transport aside, our goals were modest. I just wanted to see Margaret and her family and enjoy more light than we see in Scotland in December (not difficult, since Scotland is about level with Southern Norway and it's very dark in the winter...).  Paul just wanted us all to be (relatively) calm and get along.  So it began.First stop: Amsterdam for an overnight stay. Got there too late for the Van Gogh museum...but we saw the outdoor ice rink and the I Am sterdam sign, both pictured below.


Next day, we continued our journey to Italy. Once we arrived we had a couple of days preparing for and celebrating Christmas - "gingerbread" houses and Christmas cookie-baking pictured!


After Christmas we visited Pompeii. It amazed us because of the vastness of the site - we felt we explored a lot, but there were many parts of the city we didn't even get near. The day alternated clouds and sun, which made for some lovely pictures - a photographers paradise, even for an amateur photographer like me. Top row: view with trees and mountains, kids on ruins. Bottom row: Paul and Audrey in the amphitheater, artsy shot by Paul of a bit only he explored.


We visited Vietri (properly, Vietri sul Mare) with the Rudmanns as well, on the Amalfi coast and known for painted pottery as well as dramatic views of the city seemingly tumbling down the hillside toward the sea. Top row: Margaret, Nora and I pose in the mirror of one of the bathroom setups in a ceramic tile store. Bottom row: view of the sea and part of the city from the beach below.

Our last trip with the Rudmanns was to downtown Naples.  The traveling party was much reduced; just Margaret and myself and the middle (6 and 7 year old) girls. The itinerary included Christmas Alley (more properly the Via San Gregorio Armeno, a bit of a side street off the Spaccanapoli, the main street in the historic center of Naples) devoted to presepe, or nativity scenes that feature not just the traditional characters, but everyday people and even celebrities too) and one of the two places in Naples that claim to be "the birthplace of pizza" (L'Antica Pizzaria da Michele). But before we set off, we had to get re-accredited at the security office at the base; I had Paul take a picture because we spent so much of the first week of our vacation at the security office (due to the holidays, we could only get visitor "day passes" that had to be renewed every day) it needed to be included in the photos! Top row: Mike and I at the security office, day 5 or 6. Large figures for presepe, including the Queen (in pink toward the front of the table). Bottom row: This just made me laugh...street decoration of the magi adoring Jesus...and a pizzaria. The crowd outside L'Antica Pizzaria, as we waited for our number to be called. 

Stay tuned for Part 2, where we leave the naval base (and our going-native guides) to venture to the (temporarily) frozen north of Florence, and then return to Rome before heading back home! 

But, I Will Miss That Christmas Is a Big Deal

Despite my last blog post on the shock of no separation of church and State in Scotland  (and my continuing surprise that my 3-year old is coming home from supposedly secular nursery school singing Christmas songs that talk about Mary having a baby and asking the innkeeper for room at the inn), there are some good things about the ubiquity of Christmas here.

While the anthropologist in me thinks about the Muslims who are feeling left out, the Christian in me really likes the fuss made over Christmas.  Without Thanksgiving to postpone celebration, the Christmas season (or Festive Period) starts here in mid-November and goes all the way into early January.

Edinburgh gets a Christmas market, complete with an outdoor skating rink, and stalls selling spiced wine, hot chocolate and chocolate-dipped marshmallows. But Dundee kicks off with Christmas Light Night, then the West End (the neighborhood where we live) has its own West End Christmas Light Night.  This is a free event, put on by the city/neighborhood, and it involves a concert in the local church, a pipe band to start things off (they even had Christmas lights on their bagpipes but I couldn't get a good picture), the lighting of the Christmas tree, a fireworks display, and Santa and others giving out free goodies to kids (a chocolate sampler, a coloring book, glow-glasses). Plus sparklers. 

Sparklers in front of the tree

More sparklers!

Santa posing with Audrey

We also took part in another Dundee Christmas tradition this year: the Singing Kettle Christmas show (I won the tickets by following a link on Twitter - even better!):

Specific instructions on attire

She's ready!

Though it's not certain he is...

Making use of the reindeer antlers sent by Nana

We still have another month and it is packed with Christmas possibilities - Christmas Fayres (yes, spelled like that) and events, many free, and the general festivity of a city that's decked with boughs of holly and where people have a little more fa-la-la-la-la than for the rest of the year.

And that, I will miss.

Christmas Light Night 2014 or Church and State, No Separation

Friday the 14th of November, 2014  marked the annual Christmas Light Night in Dundee. 

Waiting for the lights to be switched on

This is the night on which the Christmas tree in the city centre is switched on, and the Christmas season officially begins (at least from the point of view of stores and shoppers, if not the church).

If you are reading this in the US, you may be saying, hold on a minute here - the city government puts up a Christmas tree in the centre of town? And throws a party, complete with a torchlight parade, music, dancing, an appearance by Santa, fireworks (set to "Let it Go" much to the delight of the girls) but ALSO the aforementioned Christmas tree, lighted decorations with Christmas themes, and a Nativity play? What happened to separation of Church and State?

Reform Street greetings

The answer, as far as I can tell in Scotland, is "it doesn't really exist."  The common perception is"Well, everyone is Christian anyway, so it doesn't matter."  According to the 2011 census in Scotland, 54% of people say they are Christian, while 37% claim "no religion."  Muslims are 1.4% of the population, and all others (Hindu, Jewish, Sikh, or Another Religion) are .9% of the population.  Audrey goes to a Catholic school which is part of the state-supported school system - she went because there were places there, not so much because we wanted her to be in Catholic school, but it is tuition-free - again, a big no-no in the States, and a big so-what in Scotland.

So, Christmas Light Night 2014. 

The Christmas Tree, lit up

The City Centre gets a teacup ride for the occasion

...and really large Disney balloons...

Preparing to go out, with our Santa hats

Bonus: One-minute video of the Light Night event during which the band plays a cover of A-Ha's "Take On Me" on the bagpipes. Seriously Awesome.

Caution: Objects in Mirror Are Older Than They Appear, or Approaching Forty on Facebook

I have somewhat over 300 friends on Facebook, and I would guess that 90% of them I met before I was an adult.  I'll draw the line arbitrarily at about age 21 for that; in other words, if I met you after I left college, you're in the 10%.  But if you are among the vast majority of my FB friends, I met you when I was between 14 and 19.  And this has some consequences.  For example, I recently noticed that among those of you who have kids approaching (or already in) double digits, I'll be scrolling through my Newsfeed and all of the sudden I'll see YOU...well, the you I knew when we first met and we were 15.  Except it's not you. It's your child.  This is disconcerting.

Also making me do double-takes nowadays - if I met you when you were 15 and we were good friends, chances are excellent that I met your parents.  And it has recently become alarming to me that I'll be scrolling through the Newsfeed and all of the sudden I'll see YOUR PARENT...except it's really you.  The math supports me on this one - if you were born when your parents were around 25 (not that unusual in the 70's), when you were 15 and I met your parents, they were...about 40. And voila, the alternate title of this post.

And a special note about Eddie. I am not Eddie's friend on Facebook, because he is the little brother of my sister's elementary school best friend (figure out that relationship!) But he and his wife recently had a baby, because, you know, they are in their thirties, and it's normal to have a kid then.  But I have extremely clear memories of Eddie when he was three (which is the same age as my younger daughter is now).  So in a brain-bending twist, seeing him and his baby has caused me to imagine my three year old as a mom. And it is just too strange.

 So next time I like a photo of your child (even though, most of the time, I have never met your child) or if I hesitate before I like a photo of you (although you will never actually know this), it's just because I am coming to terms with getting older where everyone can see me, on social media. Where the 15-year-olds I remember have become the 40-year-old parents, and I am no exception. 

I Miss Halloween

Monkey and Princess, October 2012

Our last Halloween in the States, Audrey was 4 and Claire was almost 15 months old. We followed the Providence, RI routine - we met up at Brown St. Park, had the Halloween parade, and then trick-or-treated back toward our house.  Claire was just making the connection between going to houses, saying Trick or Treat, and getting candy...she was amazed that this kept working at each house.

Audrey was in her element, hanging out with friends and going door to door - Paul told her she was collecting candy for him, and she still believed it.

Monkey Claire learning to trick or treat, October 2012

Brown St. Parade (our friend "Rod Stewart" in the foreground)

Last year, we had only been in Scotland a month at Halloween, and Audrey had just started school a week before, so we knew very few people.  We heard about a few Halloween parties, but weren't invited. Trick or Treating didn't seem to be a "thing" - we saw some older kids roaming around but our house is off the beaten path so we didn't get any trick or treaters.   Audrey was a little disappointed; Claire was too young to know the difference.

This year, we planned to try to trick or treat, starting with some friends who were expecting us, and then go from there, but at the last minute we were invited by Audrey's school friend's mom to go trick or treating in their neighborhood and then go on to a Halloween party.  We drove over there and had a critical mass of 6 kids between the ages of 3 and 10, and we started looking for likely houses.  In their neighborhood (maybe 30-40 houses), about 4 has their lights on, the code for "open for trick or treating" (at least in the US, I assume it also holds in Scotland as well). The process is much more involved, though; instead of bopping from house to house and collecting candy, you are invited in and asked for your performance - a joke, a song, a dance.  After the first house I came up with "Twinkle Twinkle Little Bat" and got Audrey, Claire, and Audrey's school friend to sing along - it went something like this (bear in mind I made this up on the fly...no pun intended):

Twinkle, twinkle little bat

How I wonder where you're at

Flying up in the sky

Flying low and flying high

Twinkle, twinkle little bat

How I wonder where you're at.

People seemed to like this (at least it was something...all the Halloween songs and jokes that are out there, and I couldn't remember a THING). So at each house, the kids got several pieces of candy, sometimes fruit, and also a little money (for their "punch boxes" no idea what this is, and the all-knowing Internet is no help, a search for this term just gives me boxing equipment).  After trick or treating to the 4 available houses, we went to the party at the community center.  It was a smallish gym, stuffed with kids (aged a few weeks to about 12 years) who were dancing to loud music with disco lights (I remember a jazzy version of the Scooby Doo theme), and their parents resting at tables in the back of the hall.  It was definitely kid friendly - only 1 pound admission and juice and snacks for just a small donation, but it was hot and loud, and Claire was ready for bed so we made an exit, leaving Audrey with her school friend and her parents. We finally ended up at our friends' house (the ones who had been expecting us originally) and chatted with them a few minutes.  Since they are not Scottish, they gave Claire plenty of candy, and didn't even demand a performance.  They were complaining they hadn't had any trick or treaters, but we told them they needed to turn on their front light - and, as if to prove our point, as we left their house, three young teens came up to their door. 

Facebook friends,  I love seeing pictures of your kids in their costumes, with their candy.  I also love the pictures of groups of kids meeting up and traveling around your neighborhoods, because it reminds me that maybe next year we'll be back in the States, and back to celebrating Halloween for real instead of it being an imported holiday!

Wood Fairy and grumpy Princess, October 2014

The Wonder Blog

My cultural probe box greets me

A few weeks ago, a student at the Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design (yes, it's a long name for a place to work - we call it DJCAD)  took to the email listserv asking for volunteers for his senior project on Wonder.  His methodology was the cultural probe, which, to my knowledge, is a little bit like anthropology in a box or an envelope; no ethnographer doing interviews, but a variety of materials to think about, and to respond to through various means.  I got a disposable camera to snap pictures of everyday wonder, a wee diary to record information about my "wonder camera" snaps and other thoughts, an instruction to write a letter to my childhood self about wonder, and a set of postcards with images to which I was to record my responses. The last bit, which I want to share here, asked me to put together a collection of images related to wonder.  The instructions for this were very object-focused, and as I tried to collect the images, I found out that I am not a terribly object-focused person (though Paul would disagree, given my pack-rat nature...I hang onto things but I don't really care about them, I guess). Below are the images I chose, with the prompt in the caption:

Evokes a sense of wonder (2)

Evokes a sense of wonder (1)

The object on the left is a glass block commemorating the christening of  a ship at the Newport News Shipyard. My dad gave it to me when I was 4 or 5. It is also a prism, and is currently on my daughters' windowsill to make rainbows when it's sunny.  The object on the right is a partly finished sock monkey. I make sock monkeys for babies - if you know me, your child may have one! This one is being co-sewn by Audrey and I for her teacher who's set to go out on maternity leave in December.

Environment that evokes a sense of wonder

East Sands beach, St. Andrews.  I like it because beaches are sources of rocks and shells (see later picture) and also because of the St. Andrews Cathedral in the background - wonderful architecture.

Object you do not tire of exploring: rocks and shells!

Object that brings you joy

 Paul made this for Valentines Day one year early in our marriage, a little sculpture with our initials.

Object you find beautiful for its aesthetics: part of my egg collection

Object you find beautiful for its intrinsic qualities: one of Claire's first recognizable drawings

Drawn just a few days before her third birthday, she says it's a bug eating an apple and darned if it doesn't look like that.

An object that inspires joy and discovery: books, of course!

I didn't include these in my image collection but they are a few more wonderful things:

Audrey trimming the Christmas tree, December 2013

A rainbow that ended on Magdalen Green near our house, October 2014

I hope you've enjoyed a peek into my Wonder Blog.  Please leave a comment about the things or environments you find wonderful!