Monday, July 28, 2014

St. Andrews Highland Games: Highland Experience in the Lowlands of Scotland

Living in Dundee, we are relatively close to the Highlands.  Within an hour's drive you could probably reach several Highland villages; within three hours you could be to but all but the most remote (although let me tell you, in Scotland there is a lot of "remote").  Even closer, and offering one of the same Highland amenities - namely, Highland Games, is St. Andrews.  Famous for golf and the University, St. Andrews is also quite international for a Scottish town of its size (i.e., tiny) and this may be why they host a Highland Games - a Scottish traditional event for their international visitors.  This year was the 30th annual Highland Games, and we went along to see what it was about.

The program advertised Heavy Events, Cycling, Running, Solo Piping, Tug of War, Stalls, Highland Dancing, Refreshment Tent, Mini Fun Fair, and City of St. Andrews Pipe Band. We saw all of the above, except for solo piping, which didn't seem to be happening (and you'd think that if there were bagpipes, we would have heard them).  Paul enjoyed the running events- apparently Scots excel at middle distances, so it brought him back to his high school running days of the 400 and the 800, and he spent time trying to figure out the handicapping system (we'd never seen running handicapped before, but officials placed people on the track based on their speediness, resulting in many close races).

Also not mentioned until we got there, and probably not typical of all Highland Games: they had a visitor-participation part in the middle of the games.  About 3 pm, they called for children to participate in races based on their sex and age - starting with girls under 5 and working their way up to approximately 12 year-old boys.  Both the girls ran (although Claire didn't quite have the concept, she kept looking back at me like, "Mom, aren't you coming too?") and won sweeties (candy) as a prize. Then they had the International visitors race - for the ladies first, then men.  The only requirements were that you couldn't live in the UK, and you had to be able to do one circuit of the track (by this time Paul had figured out that this was about 300 meters). 

Below are a few pictures of the events of the day, in the approximate order that they unfolded.

The last event we saw was the tossing of the caber, a truly amazing event where the heavy competitors (read: large men) heft a pole more than three times their height (the announcer said around 20 feet, similar to a tree trunk or telephone pole) and throw it not for distance, but for style - while standing on an imaginary clock face at 6 o'clock, they lift it by the wide/heavy end and flip it so the narrow end lands at 12 o'clock. Of the 8 competitors we saw, only 2 could toss the caber with any consistency.  More often, they would toss it and instead of falling forward toward 12 o'clock, it would fall backward toward 6 o'clock (and the competitor).  Because the  track and field events took place on the same field (heavy events in the middle with running/cycling tack around them) there was also a hair-raising moment when a youth cyclist obliviously rode too close to the caber-tossing event - the heavy events announcer, mild-mannered until then, stopped mid-commentary to yell at the boy to get out of the way - I believe his exact words, miked for all to hear, were something like,  "Out of the way! If that falls on you, you'll be turned into sausages!"  


Audrey in the bouncy castle (Fun Fair)

Small Highland dancers

The local Lord Provost opening the Games

Athletes sheltering from the (inevitable, but fortunately brief) rain


I think this is throwing the 22 lb hammer

Claire ready for the under-5 Children's Race

Part of the lineup for the International Visitor's Race

Pipe Band on their circuit of the field at "intermission"

Tug of War

Paul with the program

One of the competitors successfully tossing the caber

Bonus: City of St. Andrews Pipe Band video clip (30 seconds)

 

Monday, July 21, 2014

Seen Along the A9: from Perth to Inverness

Screenshot of Google Maps: A9 from Perth to Inverness
When we went on holiday last week, we drove through a section of Scotland from Perth to Inverness. The road for this whole journey is the A9, a motorway with 2 lanes going each way.  As you can see from the map above, there are a few towns along the way, and a lot more small villages and open space.  As we drove, I made notes in my phone about what we were passing.
  •  A sign advertising the Birnam Highland Games
  • A House of Bruar mail-order warehouse. Unlike the Amazon.uk warehouse between Dundee and Edinburgh, this one looked like an oversize barn. Turns out House of Bruar is a company selling clothing and food "Scotland's Most Prestigious, Independent Store" according to the website.
  • The Allium Garden Centre
  • The Nae Limits Outdoor Centre
  • Lots of Hills (maybe even could call them mountains)
  • Trees
  • Sheep
  • More sheep - close sheep, and far sheep (Scotland wealth of animals grazing by the roadside demands precision: as we drive, Audrey and I comment, "Close sheep, Audrey's side!" "Far cows, Claire's side!")
  • A sign advertising the Blair Castle Horse Show in late August
  • A car shrine (an actual car) with a sign "Mrs, Ingram (?) murdered by (something/someone I couldn't read)
  • More House of Bruar signage, located in the actual town of Bruar this time
  • Stag Leaping signs (according to Google, they are actually "Caution Deer" signs. Paul and I were joking that they must have little signs in the woods "Caution, driving humans, next 3 miles. Watch for traffic." Surely Gary Larson has been to Scotland.)
  • Rivers and Lochs
  • Falling Rocks Next 7 Miles sign (or that was my interpretation)
  • Sheep grazing about 10 feet from the road ("close sheep!")
  • Two trains
  • Two dead deer by the roadside
  • A major sheep farm with hundreds of sheep grazing between the road and the train tracks 
  • A small sign proclaiming "Nude Farm" (?)
  • A TV repair shop called Telly on the Blink
Just to give you an idea of the trip, at one point Audrey, Claire and I were playing "I Spy."  We had to stop after a few rounds, first, because Claire, at not-quite-three, couldn't really play, but second, because we were running out of things to Spy.  You can only do "I spy with my little eye something that is Green" so many times (Tree? Bush? Grass? Hill? Moss?) Scotland, land of Green.
Caution Deer Sign

Wednesday, July 16, 2014

10 Things I Learned on Holiday in Scotland

1. 75 degrees is very hot in Edinburgh.
It's amazing how hot mid-70's feels when your baseline has adjusted to 50 and windy. Our Dundonian cab driver described the weather while we were away as "a scorcher" (no lie), probably meaning in the 70's.   

Audrey atop the Nelson Monument

Heat requires ice cream. Real Italian ice cream.
 2. Inverness is lovely, and has a beautiful park and playground for kids (Whin Park)
Walking along the River Ness
3. Sometimes the city decides to open the bridge across the Caldonian Canal right by your hotel for 2 hours, without any warning, at 8 pm.
Fortunately, there is a footbridge. Unfortunately, it is a kilometer away, "just around the bend."
 
Our hotel is JUST across that canal

4. Urquhart Castle by Loch Ness is a ruin because its owner, loyal to William & Mary, blew it up himself on the way out the door rather than wait to be sacked by the Jacobites who were not loyal to the English crown.

Urquhart Castle with Loch Ness behind






 5. Super Bear was born to be a medieval knight. 


6. Despite kids books promising that Nessie will come by the say hello, she actually is scared away by all the tour boats. This does not stop your 6-year-old from looking for tell-tale bubbles.


7. The scenery driving up to the rural highlands in Gairloch is beautiful, and the roads are very narrow and windy.


8.  Glamping is not so bad, except for the occasional swarms of midges (imagine a cross between a gnat and a mosquito - swarm-y and bite-y)
Our wigwam

View across campground to sea

9. Beaches are still great, even if it's too cold to swim for more than a few minutes

Lots of stones on the beach = sculpture!

Low tide

10. If your car breaks down in the rural highlands, you're really glad you're covered by RAC (similar to American Automobile Association) for a tow all the way back to Dundee

Our trip from Gairloch to Inverness, our blue car on the back

Saturday, July 5, 2014

Historic Scotland, You're Brilliant; Jousting at Linlithgow Palace

Linlithgow Palace with jousting set up on Linlithgow Peel.



When we arrived in Scotland last summer, someone (probably my boss) recommended that we get a family membership to Historic Scotland.  They run some of the loveliest and most popular historic properties in Scotland, including Edinburgh Castle and our "local" castle and cathedral in St. Andrews. They also run special events in the summer, and especially after going to Jousting at Linlithgow Palace near Edinburgh today, I am definitely a convert - our Historic Scotland membership was worth every pound.

Linlithgow Palace courtyard
We had not been to Linlithgow Palace before; birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots, and her father James V. It is a ruin, but quite impressive as ruins go.  The fountain in the courtyard (pictures below), re-installed in 2005, is magnificent.  If I hadn't had two little ones dragging me off (to the Peel! to the Stairs!) I could have spent a long time looking at it. 





Below: the whole fountain from one side, from above , and a close-up of a Unicorn.




  Speaking of those little ones - I am so impressed, Historic Scotland, with how well prepared you were for them, and us.  The special-event parking area was clearly marked, Historic Scotland staff checked our cards and gave us wristbands for entry right there in the car park, there were buses lined up to take us over to the Palace, and we were dropped off just down the (small)  hill from the entrance.  There were toilets right as we went through the gate, and more down near the Jousting area - clearly, Historic Scotland event planners, you are familiar with potty-training toddlers!

We couldn't have asked for a more beautiful day - sunny, warm but not roasting, with a wee bit of wind rain thrown in during the joust, just to remind us it IS still Scotland.


Peel, from a window of the Palace

Introducing the competitors

My best picture of the competitors; not that flattering of the horses...


And the Linlithgow Peel was gorgeous as well; mature trees for shade, all the arenas and tents well organized, and even dueling ice-cream trucks  (one with real ice cream and the other with the whipped-cream-ish stuff that passes for ice cream here - but they were equally popular.) 

Dueling ice cream trucks in the shade
And of course the most popular feature for the girls - they had hobby-horse jousting, which amused for a minute, but the playpark and the grass and trees held their attention much longer. The most scenic playpark I've ever been to, for sure.

Hobby horse jousting with dad holding the lance (can't hold horse and lance at the same time...)

Part of Linlithgow Peel playpark (swings not pictured)

Playing with a friend they found, under the trees
All in all, a great day out (as Historic Scotland promises) as you can see by the smiles as we were getting ready to head out (note duck in shining armor), and Paul's artwork for Audrey before she headed off to bed...

In a window near the Palace entrance

Jousting artwork by  Paul Orzech