Monday, August 3, 2015

Part 2: Five More Views of the Isle of Skye

In Part 1 of the Isle of Skye blog, I showed the vastness of Skye (driving around), picturesque Uig, our wigwam, the Quiraing hike and the Fairy Glen.

In Part 2, I'll start with:
6. Portree. 
Although it is the largest city (by some margin) in Northern Skye, and we drove through it several times, I don't really have pictures of it because we were always passing through, or waiting to park (not exactly a picture-taking opportunity!) or grabbing a quick bite (often of ice cream, not because it was so warm outside, but because it made a good bribe for the kids).  As you drive in from the south, there are a string of bed and breakfasts along the main road, sandwiched between the road and the harbor, that had stunning views.  When we stopped to get gas on our way out of Skye, I snaped this picture of a bit of the harbor, but if we end up back in Skye, I would love to stay in one of those B&Bs and wake up to Portree harbor every morning.
Portree harbor, Skye
7. The Fairy Pools  
On our second day with our friends the Loves, we decicded to make the drive down to the Fairy Pools. It had been recommended as one of the best things to see on Skye, and it did not disappoint.  We easily found the parking and then made our way down the (fairly steep, but still doable for all but the littlest girl) path to the pools.  The first set of pools was impressive enough, and some of our party went wading (some on purpose, and some accidentally). After drying off a bit we decided to walk on "just 10 minutes more" and were rewarded by even more lovely pools and waterfalls.  We turned around and managed to time it just right; the rain started up in earnest just as we got back in the car.

Walking down the path to the Fairy Pools

The first pool (notice how clear the water is!)

This water is too cold for wading!
A pool further up the trail.
Making footprints is fun!
The last pool we got to, with a mini-mountain view.

Crossing and re-crossing the creek on the way back.
8. The Ill-fated hike
On our last day on Skye, we weren't sure what to do. We'd packed a lot into the first two days, but still didn't want to miss out on what Skye had to offer.  Audrey voted to go back to the Fairy Glen, but we ended up striking out on a small hike instead, on our way to Dunvegan Castle.  Unfortunately for us, our hiking prowess is very low. And we missed the trail.  We ended up following a road onto someone's land and crunching through moss, heather, and who knows what other kinds of flora to get to the top of the hill to overlook an inlet and something labeled "natural arch" on the map.

It turned out to be a nice view, but we did have an uncertain moment when the homeowners came to the front door of their house to peer out at us crashing through the underbrush on their land. I can only imagine their conversation, but they must have decided we were harmless, as they went back inside.
View at the end of the ill-fated hike

And this was the high ground...still up to our knees in damp grass, bushes, etc.
9. Dunvegan Castle
After the ill-fated hike, we were ready for something more...structured. So we went on to Dunvegan Castle.  We balked a bit at the family price (not a Historic Scotland property, sadly, but privately run) but it was totally worth it.  The three gardens were lovely, as was the house. On the way down to the shop, old photos of  Skye in the 1880s lined the walls, showing ordinary life in the crofts and fishing industry. (For a print of Dunvegan castle made somewhat earlier than the 1880s, look at this one in the collection of the Tate Britain).  And of course the girls got to buy stuffed Highland cows with their holiday money, so they were happy.

Dunvegan Castle

Waterfall in the Water Garden

Audrey's photo of a water lily in the Walled Garden

Old delivery crate with castle address, in the garden museum
10. Getting there and back again
Driving to Skye from Dundee was a long way  - Google maps says 5.5 hours, but Google maps does not have two small children, gorgeous scenery, or (not pictured) slow Camper Vans and even (yes) tractors to deal with on small one-lane-each-way-if-you're-lucky roads. So we made the most of our seven-hour crossing of Scotland. We stopped (every 20 miles on the way out, according to Paul), got some air, took pictures, and saw the lovely Eileen Donan castle on the way back. 

The Skye bridge, as we approached it from Kyle of Localsh

Eileen Donan castle

Scenic overlook: the Highlands
Skye was definitely stunning. A little chilly (as this whole summer has been across Scotland). I fail to understand how people can call it "Summer" if the temperature never exceeds 60 degrees fahrenheit. But the (inevitable) rain cooperated, pouring down only when we were already in the car or tucked into our wigwam for the night.  And when the sun came out, even in brief bursts, it was magical.  But that's Scotland for you.

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